Agen:
Agen was the French launching point for the final stage of our epic Chemin du Puy journey. From Barcelona we took three trains to arrive in Agen, only to have to take a bus the following day to Lectoure, where the walking actually began. Clearly, we are visiting some off-the-beaten-track places!
The charming city of Agen was a Gallo-Roman village in the 2nd Century and in 509 AD was taken by the Franks. In the middle ages, it was briefly controlled by the English due to the marriage of Eleanor of Aquitaine to Henry Plantagenet of England. By the 19th century, the city had become a major agricultural and commercial center aided, no doubt, by its location at the junction of two major transportation routes, the Garonne River and the Canal du Midi. Its rich history is evident in its medieval streets and Renaissance mansions.
We stayed at Serra Boutique Hotel, an eco-friendly spot with a spa and a fantastic location. This is the interior patio.
Here I am overlooking the Garonne River with the 17th century Canal du Midi aqueduct in the background.
Here we are enjoying a drink at L’Écluse 34 (Lock 34) on the Canal du Midi.
And after drinks, more drinks… and cheese!
Place de la République.
Agen street scene.
Cathédrale Saint-Caprais d’Agen, 12th century, UNESCO World Heritage site based on its location on the Camino de Santiago.
Statue of a pilgrim honoring Agen’s status as a stop on the Chemin du Puy route to Santiago de Compostela.
Another view of the cathedral.
Statue of the Monkey Thinker, by Stéphane Muñoz. The monkey observes a human skull and thinks “whaaaat”?
Lectoure:
On our second afternoon in Agen, we hopped on a local bus to Lectoure. Wow, what a town! With only 3,700 inhabitants, it is petite, perfect, and pristine. Lonely Planet calls it the region’s “most seductive village”, and we agree!
Okay, the bus didn’t leave us right at the door so, yes, that’s me wheeling my suitcase toward our hotel. Never say never…
On the way we passed several boutiques including fromageries, wine caves, and antique shops.
Yes, these are cheeses even though they look like sweets!
Cool and funky.
The ancient Halle au Grains (grain market), now a municipal building.
Cathédrale Saint-Gervais-Saint Protais.
Statue commemorating Icarus in front of the cathedral. Icarus is a recurring theme in the Gers region. You’ll see him again in an art exhibit in Condom.
Musée Eugène-Camoreyt de Lectoure, the architecture museum.
Originally a hospital, this building now hosts artisan workshops.
The Hotel Collège des Doctrinaires is a go-to place for British weddings.
We just enjoyed wine and cheese there, although some wedding guests gave us quite the stink-eye, no doubt wondering who we had paid off to snag such a great table at THEIR party!
Leaving Lectoure on a beautiful morning.
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